Your Kitchen Is Clean So Why Are Fruit Flies Still Everywhere?

You scrubbed the counters. You threw away every piece of fruit. You emptied the trash, cleaned the bin, and even wiped down the backsplash. And yet — every single morning those tiny flies are back, hovering near your sink like they never left.

Here’s what nobody told you: the source of your fruit fly problem is probably not on your counters at all. It’s inside your drain.

This is the hidden truth that frustrates homeowners across Greenwich, CT, Stamford, Darien, New Canaan, Wilton, and Westport every single year. You can clean every visible surface in your kitchen and still have a thriving fruit fly colony breeding 6 inches below your sink completely invisible, completely undisturbed, and producing hundreds of new flies every week.

A Fruit Flies in Drain infestation is one of the most misunderstood and most persistent pest problems in Connecticut homes and commercial kitchens. This guide explains exactly what’s happening inside your pipes, how to confirm the drain is the source, and — most importantly how to eliminate it completely.

For the full picture on fruit fly control including traps, larvae identification, and prevention strategies, visit our Fruit Fly Authority Hub — the most comprehensive resource available for CT homeowners.

Let’s find those flies and get rid of them for good.

Why Your Drain Is a Fruit Fly Breeding Paradise

To understand why drains attract fruit flies so powerfully, you need to understand what’s actually living inside your pipes.

What Is Drain Biofilm?

Over time, kitchen and bathroom drains accumulate a thick, slimy coating on the interior walls of the pipe. This coating called biofilm is a complex mixture of:

• Grease and cooking fats washed down the drain
• Food particles from rinsed dishes and produce
• Soap scum from dish soap and hand soap
• Bacteria that feed on organic matter
• Hair and other organic debris (especially in bathroom drains)

This biofilm doesn’t just sit there inertly it ferments. The bacteria in the biofilm break down organic matter and produce the same compounds — acetic acid, ethanol, and CO₂ — that fermenting fruit produces. In other words, your drain smells exactly like a rotting fruit bowl to a fruit fly.

And it’s not just the smell. The biofilm provides:

• Warmth — pipes maintain consistent temperature
• Moisture — exactly the humidity fruit fly larvae need
• Food — the biofilm itself is the larval food source
• Protection — larvae are hidden from surface cleaning

According to Wikipedia’s overview of Drosophila melanogaster — the most common household fruit fly species — these insects evolved to breed in moist, fermenting organic environments. Your drain biofilm recreates that environment with remarkable precision.

The result: a fruit fly in drain situation can sustain a colony indefinitely — completely independent of any fruit, trash, or food left on your counters. You can clean your kitchen spotlessly and still have hundreds of flies emerging from your pipes every day.

This is why fruit flies keep coming back despite your best cleaning efforts. If the drain is the source and you’re not treating the drain — you’re losing the battle before it starts.

How to Confirm Your Drain Is the Source

Before treating, confirm. Many homeowners treat their drains unnecessarily while missing the actual source. Here’s exactly how pest professionals confirm a fruit fly in drain infestation.

The Plastic Wrap Test (Gold Standard Method)

This is the most reliable, professional-recommended method to confirm drain involvement:

What you need:

• Clear plastic wrap or a zip-lock bag
• Petroleum jelly or cooking spray
• Tape (painter’s tape or masking tape works best)

Instructions:

1. Coat the inside surface of a piece of plastic wrap with a generous layer of petroleum jelly or cooking spray
2. In the evening, place the coated plastic wrap over the drain opening with the coated side facing down into the drain
3. Tape all four edges firmly to the surrounding surface — you want a tight seal
4. Leave it overnight (8–12 hours)
5. Check the plastic wrap in the morning — if flies are stuck to the coated inner surface, your drain is confirmed as an active breeding site

Why it works: Fruit flies emerging from the drain move upward and immediately contact the sticky petroleum jelly coating. They become stuck, providing clear visual confirmation. If no flies are stuck to the inner surface but you still have a kitchen fly problem — your source is elsewhere.

The Visual Inspection Method

While less definitive than the plastic wrap test, direct visual inspection can provide supporting evidence:

• Shine a flashlight into the drain at night (when flies are most active)
• Look for movement — tiny flies resting on the drain strainer or just inside the opening
• Examine the drain strainer for buildup — heavy organic accumulation is a strong indicator
• Smell the drain with your face close to the opening — a distinctly sour, fermented odor indicates active biofilm

The Pattern Observation Method

Answer these questions honestly:

• Do flies appear near the sink even when all countertop food has been removed?
• Are fly numbers highest in the morning (when the drain has had overnight activity)?
• Have you cleaned the kitchen thoroughly multiple times without solving the problem?
• Do flies appear to emerge from or hover near the drain area specifically?
• Does the problem persist despite setting traps away from the sink?

If you answered yes to three or more of these — your drain is almost certainly involved.

Understanding the Fruit Fly Drain Breeding Cycle

Knowing exactly what’s happening inside your drain helps you choose the right treatment and understand why some methods fail.

The Cycle: How Fruit Flies Breed in Your Drain

Stage 1 — Egg Laying
Adult female fruit flies detect the fermentation compounds rising from your drain biofilm. They enter the drain (or lay eggs at the drain opening) and deposit eggs directly into the biofilm coating the pipe walls. A single female can lay up to 500 eggs in her lifetime.

Stage 2 — Larval Development (4–5 days)
Eggs hatch within 24–30 hours. The larvae feed on the biofilm itself — the bacteria, organic particles, and grease composing the coating. They live entirely within the biofilm layer, where they’re protected from surface cleaning, boiling water (which cools rapidly as it flows), and bleach (which doesn’t penetrate the biofilm’s outer layer).

Stage 3 — Pupal Stage (4–5 days)
Larvae transition to the pupal stage, often moving slightly above the waterline in the pipe or remaining within the biofilm.

Stage 4 — Adult Emergence
Adult flies emerge and immediately begin seeking mates and additional breeding sites. Females are sexually mature within 2 days of emerging. The cycle repeats.

The math: From egg to breeding adult in approximately 10 days. With 500 eggs per female and multiple females breeding simultaneously, a drain infestation can sustain enormous adult populations indefinitely.

Life Stage	Duration	Location	Vulnerability
Egg	24–30 hours	Drain biofilm	Low — protected in biofilm
Larva	4–5 days	Drain biofilm	Low — feeds within biofilm
Pupa	4–5 days	Biofilm / near waterline	Low
Adult	Up to 30 days	Kitchen and surrounding areas	High — caught by traps

The critical insight from this table: Adult flies are easy to trap but represent a tiny fraction of the total population. The breeding — happening in the larval and egg stages inside your biofilm — is where the real battle is.

How to Treat Fruit Flies in Your Drain: Every Method Ranked

Now that you understand what you’re dealing with, let’s go through every treatment option — from least to most effective — so you can choose the right approach for your situation.

What Doesn’t Work (Stop Doing These)

Bleach
This is the most common mistake. Pouring bleach down the drain feels decisive and productive — but it’s largely ineffective against drain fruit fly infestations. Here’s why: bleach is a liquid that flows through the center of the pipe. It contacts the biofilm briefly but doesn’t penetrate the full depth of the coating where eggs and larvae live. It may kill surface bacteria temporarily but leaves the biofilm structure intact. Within days, the biofilm recolonizes and the cycle continues.

Boiling Water Alone
Better than bleach — boiling water disrupts biofilm and can kill some larvae on contact. However, water cools rapidly as it flows through the pipe and doesn’t reach the biofilm in deeper sections. Useful as a supplementary measure but ineffective as a primary treatment.

Chemical Drain Cleaners (Drano, etc.)
Designed to dissolve clogs — not organic biofilm coatings. They flow through the pipe like water and similarly fail to penetrate the biofilm layer. Not recommended for this purpose and potentially damaging to some pipe types.

Surface Traps Without Drain Treatment
ACV traps and other surface traps catch adult flies — but if the drain is breeding, traps alone cannot keep pace with reproduction. New adults emerge faster than traps can catch them.

Method 1: Boiling Water + Baking Soda + Vinegar Flush (Mild Infestations)

Effectiveness: ★★★☆☆
Best for: Early-stage drain infestations, supplementary treatment

This method uses the physical disruption of baking soda and vinegar’s reaction combined with heat to partially disturb biofilm.

How to do it:

1. Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain
2. Follow immediately with 1/2 cup of white vinegar — you’ll see and hear fizzing; this is the reaction working
3. Let it sit for 20–30 minutes — don’t run water during this time
4. Flush with a full kettle of freshly boiled water poured slowly down the drain
5. Repeat twice daily for two weeks

Why it helps: The fizzing reaction creates some mechanical disruption of biofilm. The boiling water flush adds thermal treatment. This method provides partial results — good for mild infestations or as a maintenance measure after primary treatment.

Limitation: Doesn’t reach deeper sections of the pipe and doesn’t biologically eliminate the biofilm.

Method 2: Enzymatic Drain Cleaner (Best DIY Treatment)

Effectiveness: ★★★★★
Best for: Moderate to severe drain infestations — this is the recommended primary DIY treatment

Enzymatic drain cleaners use beneficial bacteria that produce enzymes capable of biologically digesting and eliminating organic biofilm — including the grease, food particles, and bacterial colonies that make up the fruit fly breeding environment.

Unlike bleach or chemical cleaners that flow past the biofilm, enzymatic cleaners colonize the pipe walls and digest the biofilm from within. This is a fundamentally different — and dramatically more effective — approach.

How to use enzymatic drain cleaner:

1. Choose a product labeled for organic buildup or biofilm (not just clog clearing)
2. Clean the drain strainer thoroughly before treatment — remove any visible debris
3. Apply the enzymatic cleaner according to product directions — typically pour down the drain before bed
4. Do NOT run water for 6–8 hours after application (overnight treatment is ideal)
5. Repeat every 2–3 days for 2 weeks minimum
6. Continue monthly as a maintenance measure to prevent recurrence

Why this works: The beneficial bacteria in enzymatic cleaners multiply and colonize the pipe walls, continuously producing enzymes that break down the biofilm. With the food source eliminated, larvae cannot survive and the breeding cycle collapses.

Pro Tip: Run the treatment consistently for the full two weeks even if you see improvement early. Biofilm rebuilds quickly if treatment is stopped prematurely. Complete elimination requires sustained treatment.

Method 3: Mechanical Drain Cleaning (Physical Biofilm Removal)

Effectiveness: ★★★★☆
Best for: Drains with heavy buildup, excellent as a preparatory step before enzymatic treatment

Sometimes the biofilm accumulation in a drain is so heavy that chemical treatment alone can’t penetrate effectively. In these cases, physical cleaning of the drain creates a better starting point.

Tools needed:

• Long-handled drain brush (available at hardware stores)
• Pipe snake or drain auger
• Gloves and eye protection

Instructions:

1. Remove the drain strainer completely
2. Use the drain brush to scrub the interior walls of the visible pipe section — apply firm pressure to physically dislodge biofilm coating
3. If accessible, use a pipe snake to reach deeper sections
4. Flush the dislodged material with hot water
5. Follow immediately with enzymatic drain cleaner treatment

Physical removal of the outer biofilm layer exposes deeper layers to enzymatic treatment — dramatically improving the effectiveness of chemical follow-up.

Method 4: Professional Foaming Drain Treatment (Most Effective Available)

Effectiveness: ★★★★★ (superior)
Best for: Persistent infestations, commercial kitchens, severe cases, situations where DIY has failed

Professional pest management technicians use foaming drain treatments that expand to fill the entire cross-section of the pipe — not just the center channel. This foam penetrates and coats the biofilm on pipe walls at multiple depth levels, delivering insecticide and biofilm-digesting agents directly to where larvae live and breed.

The foam formulation stays in contact with the pipe walls for extended periods — unlike liquids that flow through within seconds — providing far greater efficacy than any liquid treatment.

When to choose professional foaming treatment:

• DIY enzymatic treatment has not resolved the infestation after 2 weeks
• Multiple drains are affected simultaneously
• The infestation is in a restaurant or commercial kitchen
• Flies continue emerging despite consistent treatment
• You want fast, guaranteed results without weeks of DIY effort

If you’re in Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, New Canaan, Wilton, or Westport, CT and dealing with a persistent drain infestation — contact Green Pest Management CT for professional foaming drain treatment that reaches where DIY methods cannot.

Treating Every Drain: The Step Most People Miss

Here’s a mistake that extends infestations by weeks: treating only the kitchen drain while ignoring other drains.

Fruit flies will breed in any drain that has biofilm buildup — including:

• Bathroom sink drain — often overlooked because it seems unrelated to fruit flies
• Bathtub and shower drain — hair and soap scum create significant biofilm
• Laundry room floor drain — especially in older Connecticut homes
• Basement floor drains — rarely cleaned and heavily biofilm-coated
• Restaurant floor drains — multiple drains throughout kitchen and bar areas

If you treat your kitchen drain effectively but leave bathroom drains untreated, adult flies from the bathroom drain will recolonize your kitchen. The infestation appears to come back — but it never fully left.

Rule: When you treat for a drain fruit fly infestation, treat every drain in your home simultaneously.

Fruit Flies in Restaurant Drains: A Commercial-Grade Problem

For restaurant owners and kitchen managers in Westport, Stamford, and across Fairfield County, fruit flies in drains represent one of the most serious ongoing pest management challenges — and one with significant legal and reputational consequences.

Restaurant kitchens have multiple high-volume floor drains that accumulate biofilm at a rate that home kitchen drains cannot match. Daily food processing, grease from cooking, and constant washing create ideal conditions for rapid, heavy biofilm buildup.

The Connecticut Department of Public Health maintains strict food service establishment regulations requiring active pest control. A health inspector finding evidence of fruit fly activity — including near floor drains — can result in violations, required corrective actions, and potential fines.

Restaurant Drain Treatment Protocol

Daily:

• Pour enzymatic drain treatment into all floor drains after closing
• Let sit overnight — do not flush with water until morning
• Scrub bar drip mats and drain covers

Weekly:

• Physical mechanical cleaning of all floor drain strainers
• Full enzymatic treatment of all kitchen, bar, and service area drains
• Inspection of grease traps (a major biofilm source)

Monthly:

• Professional foaming drain treatment by licensed pest management technician
• Full documentation of treatment for health code compliance records

For commercial properties across Connecticut, scheduling professional monthly drain maintenance is the most effective way to maintain compliance and prevent the customer complaints and health code violations that drain fruit fly infestations cause.

Combining Drain Treatment with Surface Traps

Drain treatment eliminates the breeding source. Surface traps reduce the adult population while treatment takes effect. You need both — simultaneously.

For the most effective apple cider vinegar fruit fly trap method to pair with your drain treatment, our detailed ACV trap guide walks you through the exact recipe and placement strategy that maximizes adult catch rates.

For a comprehensive comparison of all trap types — including UV light traps, commercial bait stations, and cone funnel traps — our ranked guide to fruit fly traps gives you everything you need to choose and deploy the right option for your situation.

The winning combination:

• Enzymatic drain treatment every 2–3 days for 2 weeks
• 3+ ACV traps set near the drain area and other infestation zones
• Traps replaced every 2 days with fresh bait
• All drains treated simultaneously

Most moderate infestations resolve within 7–10 days using this combined approach consistently.

Fruit Fly Larvae vs. Maggots: What Are Those White Things in Your Drain?

When homeowners investigate their drains and spot small white organisms, panic often follows. Are these maggots? Are they dangerous? Do they mean something worse than fruit flies?

Let’s clear this up definitively.

Fruit fly larvae are what you’re almost certainly seeing in a drain biofilm situation. They are:

• Tiny — 1/8 to 1/4 inch in length
• Nearly translucent or pale white
• Very small and difficult to see without close inspection
• Found living within the biofilm coating
• The larval stage of Drosophila fruit flies

Maggots (house fly larvae) are distinctly different:

• Larger — up to 3/4 inch
• Cream or off-white, more visible
• Found in garbage, decaying meat, or organic waste
• Produce a strong, putrid odor nearby
• The larval stage of Musca domestica (house fly)

Feature	Fruit Fly Larvae	Maggots (House Fly Larvae)
Size	Tiny (1/8–1/4 inch)	Larger (up to 3/4 inch)
Color	Nearly translucent	Creamy off-white
Location	Drain biofilm, fermenting fruit	Garbage, meat, feces
Odor nearby	Sour, fermented	Strong, putrid
Treatment	Enzymatic drain cleaner	Source removal, bin sanitation
Health risk	Indirect (bacteria transfer)	Direct (significant pathogens)

If what you’re finding in your drain is very small, nearly translucent, and in a slimy coating on the pipe wall — those are fruit fly larvae. Treat with enzymatic drain cleaner as described above.

If you’re finding larger, cream-colored larvae in or near your garbage — that’s a different pest problem requiring different action.

Drain Maintenance: Preventing Fruit Flies From Returning

Eliminating an active fruit fly in drain infestation is the first battle. Preventing it from returning is the second — and it’s much easier once you have a routine.

Your Monthly Drain Maintenance Checklist

Kitchen Drain:

• Pour enzymatic drain cleaner down the kitchen drain on the first of every month
• Let sit overnight — no water for 6–8 hours minimum
• Clean the drain strainer weekly — remove and wash with hot soapy water
• Flush with hot water and baking soda monthly as supplementary maintenance
• Scrub inside the garbage disposal weekly with ice cubes made from vinegar and water

Bathroom Drains:

• Treat bathroom sink and shower/tub drains monthly with enzymatic cleaner
• Clean hair and soap scum from drain strainers weekly
• Don’t allow standing water to accumulate in drains

Basement and Floor Drains:

• Pour enzymatic cleaner into basement floor drain monthly
• Keep floor drain covers in place — don’t leave drains open
• Inspect quarterly for biofilm buildup

Restaurant-Specific:

• Daily enzymatic treatment of all floor drains
• Weekly mechanical cleaning of floor drain strainers
• Monthly professional foaming treatment
• Maintain treatment logs for health code documentation

Real Stories: What Solved the Problem for CT Homeowners

Story 1 — Greenwich, CT Homeowner

“We had fruit flies for almost a month. I cleaned everything. Set traps. Threw away all the fruit. They’d reduce for a day or two and then come back just as bad. A neighbor mentioned the drain. I was skeptical — our kitchen drain looked clean. But I did the plastic wrap test and sure enough, flies were all over the inside of the plastic in the morning. I started enzymatic drain treatment twice a week and hot water flushes daily. Within eight days, the problem was completely gone. One month of frustration ended by treating something I couldn’t even see.”

Key lesson: A visually clean drain can still harbor significant biofilm. The plastic wrap test confirms what you can’t see.

Story 2 — Stamford Restaurant Bar Manager

“We’d had a persistent fruit fly problem at the bar for weeks. We cleaned everything, changed our trash routine, used traps everywhere. The problem would get slightly better then come back. When we brought in a pest professional, they identified our floor drain behind the bar as the primary breeding site. The biofilm in that drain was substantial. After professional foaming treatment of the drain, combined with ongoing enzymatic maintenance and UV traps at the bar, the problem resolved completely within a week. The drain was the entire source — and we’d missed it completely.”

Key lesson: Bar floor drains are among the most productive fruit fly breeding sites in restaurant settings — and among the most commonly overlooked.

Story 3 — Wilton, CT Family

“We treated our kitchen drain and it seemed to work — flies reduced significantly. But then they came back. Our pest professional pointed out that we had completely ignored our bathroom drains. When they tested the master bath drain, it was also positive. We treated all four drains in our home simultaneously and the infestation ended completely. Treating just the kitchen while ignoring the bathrooms had kept the infestation going.”

Key lesson: Treating all drains simultaneously is essential — missing even one active breeding drain can sustain the entire infestation.

Pro Tips: Drain Treatment Expert Advice

Pro Tip #1: Always Treat Drains at Night

Enzymatic cleaners need extended contact time to colonize and digest biofilm. Applying treatment just before bed — when the drain won’t be used for 8+ hours — produces dramatically better results than daytime treatment.

Pro Tip #2: Don’t Skip the Mechanical Cleaning Step

For heavily built-up drains, enzymatic treatment alone may take significantly longer to work through thick biofilm. A thorough mechanical scrub of the accessible drain section before enzymatic treatment accelerates results.

Pro Tip #3: Treat the Garbage Disposal Too

The garbage disposal harbor significant biofilm on its rubber flap, interior walls, and internal mechanisms. Clean weekly by grinding vinegar ice cubes through the disposal with the water running.

Pro Tip #4: Use ACV Traps Simultaneously

While your drain treatment works on the source, ACV traps on the counter reduce the adult fly population you can see. Deploy traps near the drain area alongside your treatment program. For the most effective trap recipe, see our complete guide to fruit fly elimination.

Pro Tip #5: Be Patient — But Consistent

Enzymatic treatment takes time to colonize and digest established biofilm. Expect 7–14 days for full resolution of a moderate infestation. Consistency is more important than intensity — regular, repeated treatment beats occasional heavy doses.

Pro Tip #6: Document Your Restaurant Treatments

For food service businesses, maintain a simple log of all drain treatments including date, product used, and who performed the treatment. This documentation supports health code compliance and demonstrates proactive pest management.

FAQ: Fruit Flies in Drain — Your Questions Answered

How do I know if my fruit flies are coming from the drain?

Use the plastic wrap test: coat plastic wrap with petroleum jelly on the inside, tape it over the drain opening overnight. If flies are stuck to the inside surface in the morning, your drain is confirmed as a breeding site. You can also observe behavioral patterns — flies consistently appearing near the sink even after all food sources are removed strongly suggest drain involvement.

Does bleach kill fruit flies in drains?

No — not effectively. Bleach is a liquid that flows through the center of the pipe without penetrating the biofilm coating on pipe walls where fruit fly eggs and larvae live. It may temporarily reduce surface bacteria but leaves the biofilm structure intact. Within days, the biofilm recolonizes and breeding continues. Use enzymatic drain cleaners instead — they biologically digest the biofilm from within.

How long does it take to get rid of fruit flies in the drain?

With consistent enzymatic drain treatment (every 2–3 days) combined with ACV traps to reduce adult populations, most moderate home drain infestations resolve within 7–14 days. Severe infestations or those involving multiple drains may take longer. Professional foaming treatment can significantly accelerate this timeline.

Can fruit flies breed in bathroom drains too?

Yes — absolutely. Bathroom sink drains, shower drains, and bathtub drains all accumulate biofilm from soap scum, hair, and organic debris. Fruit flies will breed in any drain with sufficient biofilm regardless of location. This is why treating all drains simultaneously is critical — leaving bathroom drains untreated while treating the kitchen drain often results in the infestation appearing to return when it never fully left.

What is the best drain cleaner for fruit flies?

Enzymatic drain cleaners are the most effective option for fruit fly drain infestations. Look for products specifically formulated for organic buildup or biofilm — not just clog clearing. These products use beneficial bacteria and enzymes to biologically digest the biofilm where fruit flies breed. Apply before bed, allow 6–8 hours contact time, and repeat every 2–3 days for two weeks.

Why do fruit flies keep coming back to my drain even after treatment?

The most common reasons are: treatment stopped too early before biofilm was fully eliminated; some drains in the home were left untreated; the contact time was too short (water run too soon after treatment); the product used (bleach or chemical cleaner) doesn’t effectively penetrate biofilm; or a secondary source outside the drain (rotting fruit, fridge drip pan) is sustaining the adult population.

When should I call a professional for drain fruit flies?

Call a professional if: enzymatic treatment hasn’t resolved the infestation after 2 weeks; flies continue emerging from drains despite consistent treatment; you operate a restaurant or commercial kitchen; multiple drains throughout the home are affected; or you simply want the problem resolved quickly and completely without weeks of DIY effort.

Take Action Now — The Drain Won’t Fix Itself

Here’s the reality that every homeowner dealing with a fruit fly in drain problem needs to hear: this will not resolve on its own.

The biofilm in your drain is self-sustaining. It builds. It ferments. It feeds larvae. It produces adults. Those adults lay more eggs. The cycle repeats indefinitely — until you break it deliberately with the right treatment.

Every day you wait, the biofilm grows thicker and the colony grows larger. What’s manageable with 2 weeks of enzymatic treatment today could become a significantly more embedded infestation in another month.

You now have everything you need:

• How to confirm your drain is the source (plastic wrap test)
• Why bleach fails and what to use instead
• Step-by-step enzymatic treatment protocol
• Why you must treat all drains simultaneously
• How to combine drain treatment with surface traps
• When professional treatment is the right call

If you’re in Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, New Canaan, Wilton, Westport, or anywhere in Fairfield County, CT — don’t spend another week wondering why the flies keep coming back. The answer is in your drain. The solution is available right now.

Ready to Eliminate Fruit Flies From Your Drains Permanently?

Whether you’re a homeowner who’s been fighting this for weeks or a restaurant manager facing health code compliance concerns — Green Pest Management CT has the professional tools, training, and treatments to solve your drain fruit fly problem completely.

Our foaming drain treatments reach where DIY methods can’t. Our integrated approach eliminates the breeding cycle at its source. And our pest management professionals serve all of Fairfield County with safe, effective, eco-conscious solutions.

Contact Green Pest Management CT today — and eliminate drain fruit flies for good before they spread further through your home.

Green Pest Management CT proudly serves Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, New Canaan, Wilton, Westport, and all of Fairfield County, Connecticut. Safe, effective, eco-conscious pest management for homes and businesses.